First Impressions

Whirlwind, amazing, emotional, stressful, tiring and rewarding to choose a few; the reality is I am at a loss for better or more accurate words to describe journey.

Besides the internet being a big challenge, another challenge is using my iPad.  I chose my iPad over the laptop for the weight factor — big mistake, yet at the same time it was the best choice.  I swear when I get home I will sell my iPad and purchase a MacBook Air!

Upon arriving at Vancouver airport on October 29, I was scooped up by my friend Cecilia and her husband.  I accompanied them while they blew around Vancouver running errands.  By the time we arrived at their friends house, where we were staying the night, I was tired.  We went to bed at midnight only to arise at 2:00 A.M. to be at Vancouver Airport by 3:00 A.M. This is where I met the majority of the TWECS Ecuador team.  We were to meet the others, Amy, Annu and Carl in Quito.

We did the last minute organizing and labeling of boxes as well as ensured our own

personal luggage met baggage requirements.  I was sweating bullets as both my carry-on backpacks (one for camera gear and one for personal items), I was convinced, were over-weight.  Whew (wiping sweat from brow), they were not.  

In the process of handling my luggage, I had set my camera on the luggage cart.  It happened!  My camera fell to the ground landing perfectly on the lens cover.  I had not yet attached the lens hood :(  .  When I looked at it and took a couple of test photos, all appeared to be good.  Not so!  It was when we were sitting in Houston airport that someone noticed that I had a crack in my clear lens cover.  Not good!  

At the discovery of my neglect to take care of my equipment better I withdrew and fell silent.  I had not even reached Ecuador and what will I do without my most versatile lens.  I pondered many options but made no decisions.

The big challenge between leaving Vancouver and arriving in Ecuador was clearing customs with the equipment and eye glasses (see A Note From Marina on the TWECS blog).  Needless to say, we made it.  We arrived in Quito near midnight, boarded an awaiting bus, and drove to the Hosteria Santa Fe.  Marina, at this point, announced we were leaving at 6:00 A.M. By the time I got to bed it was 2:00 A.M. and the alarm was set for 5:00 A.M - a whole three hours of resting or sleeping. 

Brenda, from Prince George was my roomie.  She arose first to shower, I lazed in bed as there was just one bathroom.  I could hear her having a nice, long, and well-deserved shower.  I noted to myself that there was exceptional water pressure.  When Brenda emerged, she was astounded at the water on the floor.  I stepped out of bed into water.  Our room was totally flooded!  We discovered two things: do not turn the water pressure up and the drains in the floor were not taking the water away fast enough to avoid the flooding.  We did what we could with intermittent laughter and chuckles.  After my shower I rolled up the floor mats and placed them in the shower in a position so they could drip and drain the water.  We mopped up as best we could with what towels we had.  Brenda had to stand on the toilet to blow dry here hair.  It was 5:30 A.M. and we were wide awake.

Our destination is Santo Domingo. We boarded the bus with no breakfast in our bellies but

assured that we would be stopping in a few hours.  When we  arrived in Quito it was dark.  Now it was light and we got our first look at the Ecuadorian landscape.  It took me awhile to realize I was in South America and not Mexico.

The drivers are loco!  They tailgate! Our driver is Angel and he will be with us throughout the project.  I was sitting in the front seat judging his driving for the first couple of hours.  He is not so loco.  I considered him to be an attentive driver and felt safe.  I may think they are loco but it is what they are used to.  There is no regard for double-solid yellow lines, there is no regard for passing near a corner.  Sometimes cars cannot duck into their lane safely so we end up being three vehicles abreast on a two lane highway!  I have noticed that drivers honk a lot.  It is a distinctively polite honk to say here I am, be careful.  

Dogs, dogs, dogs everywhere.  They seem to have road sense and drivers appear to be used to them.  It is difficult to tell the stray dogs from the dogs that have owners. They also appear to be scavenging for food.  I have not seen one dong in a leash.  Cows and horses are tethered, to something unseeable on the side of the road. The funny thing is that the tether is long enough for the animals to be on the road.   

The main roads are well paved but not so wide.  To find a straight stretch more than half a kilometer is near impossible; I have been on more switch-backs and hairpin turns in one morning than I have in my life thus far.  We climbed up and up and up.

It was not uncommon to pass food vendors cooking food on make-shift grills at the side of the road in the middle of nowhere.  I have learned that many people, especially truckers, stop here for a rest or lunch.  I am not sure I would eat at any of these stops.  We stopped at a large (in comparison to most) eatery recommended by our driver.  It is their business to take us gringos to safe and healthy eating establishments.  

I cannot tell a lie — everything looks grubby.  Having said that, streets are dirty, yards are dirt, walking paths are dirt, parking lots are dirt and so on and so on.  I see people sweeping and cleaning but it does little for the overall cleanliness of the area.

Many houses were meant to be two stories.  Rebar extends to the second or third story, just in case the owner can some day afford to build the next level. Often the rebar becomes an anchor to tie line which becomes the clothes line for drying the washing.  

I was told that the numerous abandoned houses were due to the economic downturn in the 90's and the people have never come back to finish them.  Very few have 'for sale' signs.  

We pass through towns and hamlets, each causing me to wonder how the people survive and have the will to carry on in such conditions.  My next thought is that most know no other way of life.  This is normal for them and depressing for me. When I walk on the streets I see people smile and hear much laughter.  I remember one of the reason I am here — to change a life, one community at a time. 

If you have not read the TWECS blog, please click here.

Hola from Ecuador!

Greetings!

Please let me explain the lack of posts in a word — internet.

The internet in Ecuador leaves much to be desired.  It has been either no internet or a connection that is so weak I could not enter the blog site, as well as numerous other reasons.

Also, I have had a responsibility to The Third World Eye Care Society (TWECS) to update their blog.  When I have had a good internet connection, time and energy, I focused on that site.  

Please visit www.twecs-ecuador.blogspot.com  for lots of information on the Ecuador project.  Also, please share this site with your family and friends to help bring awareness to a selfless cause.  More information on TWECS can be found at TWECS.CA 

As I type, I am sitting in Otavalo waiting for a cab to Quito Airport.  Now that the TWECS project is complete I can focus on my journey so please stay tuned.  As internet, time and energy is available I will update this blog.  

This is me straddling the Ecuator - a dream come true.

Three Steps Forward, Two Steps Back

Westsong Walkway, Victoria, B.C.

I have been home, at Westbay, since September 21.  Life has been a whirlwind of preparations for my volunteer time with the Third World Eye Care Society (TWECS). 

Travel to non-English speaking countries is foreign to me (pardon the pun).  Also, my time away will be broken into four distinct segments:  two weeks with TWECS, a week in the Galapagos, a week hiking to Machu Picchu, and five days with friends in Lima. 

Preparations have included vaccinations for disease, medication for traveller’s diarrhea, and medication for altitude sickness. I have had a crash course on packing a walk-on bag with enough to suffice for five weeks away from home.  The biggest challenge has been deciding what camera equipment to bring considering my agenda and subject matter.  Believe me, I have contemplated, packed, re-packed, weighed and even took my bags to the airport to ensure they fit the walk-on criteria for fit.

Documents have had to be copied and stored in each bag … just in case I lose one set, I will have another.

I spent a week in the Comox Valley visiting the kids and grands before leaving.  I always have a great and joyful time with my children and their children.  While there, I could not for the life of me figure out why I was so tired all the time.  It became apparent once home on Ta Daa.  I was overcome with a cold and fever and found myself boat-bound for days. 

Feeling better, I am tasked to catch up with chores and the last of the preparations of

Elk Lake, Pat Bay Highway, Victoria

which is preparing the boat for neighbours to take care of her.  I have also created a blog for you to follow the TWECS project.  I will still keep this blog current, as it will contain my personal thoughts, events, photographs and feelings.  Current is synonymous with available internet.

Through all the excitement, anxiety and nervousness of my big adventure, I have never stopped thinking of Ron; he should be here with me, physically.  I know here is here in spirit but sometimes that does not feel good enough; it is not comforting enough.  I have a little cry and ask myself, what would Ron say, what would he do.  Above all, I know he would be proud of me. 

Ron and I had a dream to sail the world.  We did not plan to be ‘marina’ people.  We wanted to find anchorages near communities to whom we could lend a hand.  We would often talk about leaving these communities in some small way better off than when we arrived.  We had no idea what we could offer but we knew we would figure it out when we got there.

My trip to Ecuador and my time with TWECS, I believe, will allow me to experience doing something good for a community, to fulfill a small part of a dream we shared together. 

I have also donated Ron’s eyeglasses to the project.  I will be following them to photograph and journalize their journey to a new and needed owner. Ron’s eyeglasses were the impetus for me to attend the Western Academy of Photography — so that I could do a better job of writing and photographing. 

While I have been learning, sailing, being a mother, a Minnie to my grands, and a friend to my friends, I have come to the conclusion that there is nothing missing from my life, just someone — and not just someone — it is Ron.

Yet again I feel as thought my canvas is blank and very white. 

Colour for my canvas

For the past two years, 9 months and 13 days I feel as though I have moved three steps forward and two steps back.  I do not feel this is a negative; it is an observation since arriving home in September.  I have great optimism for the future so stay tuned.  I have no idea where I am going, who I will meet, or what I will be doing. 

Rest assured that I am poised to throw nothing but colour on my canvas.

6 Degrees of Separation — Or Less …

After Cecilia’s morning swim, breakfast, and a few

Resting on a trail

chores, we boarded the dinghy to scoot over to the aquaculture farm to visit Gordon and meet Bruce.  First, we were greeted by three barking dogs then a gentleman.  I thought it must be Bruce but it was not.  He was a friend (and his wife) visiting from Ladysmith for a couple of days. We were lead up to the office where we met Bruce.  It was not long before it was determined the Rathcliffe’s were leaving for home and Cecilia and I would join Bruce and Gordon for dinner in the early evening.  I was invited to move Ta Daa to their dock which was great considering I knew we would be having a glass of wine or two or …

We chatted with the Jones’ and Rathcliffes.  Amazingly, I learned that the Rathcliffe’s son has also sailed aboard Red Heather, the very boat that I sailed home from Hawaii just last year — small world, indeed!  In addition, the Jones brothers were also good friends with people that Cecilia knows and they knew my writing instructor, KT Pirquet, from the Western Academy of Photography!

The view from Mt. Gibralter

Cecilia and I decided to spend the day exploring Jedidiah in the dinghy.  It was a good idea until the dinghy motor gave me grief again.  It just stopped as we were crossing Bull Passage.  I was truly disappointed because I wanted to take Cecilia on an adventure.  The prudent choice was to turn around and head back to Ta Daa.  The motor would run, but I could not add any speed so we putted back. Before reaching Ta Daa we decided to explore a grouping of little rock islands.  While walking over the rocky terrain, we decided we would swim around the

The summit

islands.  We got a great amount of exercise and had huge amounts of fun.  When we told the Jones brothers, they didn’t think that the kids from the adjacent island were even that adventurous. 

For dinner I was preparing halibut marinated in lime juice and garlic.  Once the fish was placed in the marinade, I prepared the boat to up anchor and move the to aquaculture dock.  We arrived at six on the dot.  Bruce greeted us and assisted in tying Ta Daa to the dock.  I was a little concerned with the depth so check my tide books to determine if I would have enough depth for low tide the next morning.  All was good.

We had a great time eating, drinking wine and getting to know our new friends.  These fellas are eccentric, generous, hilarious, intelligent and, entertaining.  The night ended with Cecilia falling asleep while watching home videos of Panama; time to head back to the boat. 

The next morning we said our good-byes vowing to come back again.  Next stop, Keats

Keats Island 

Island.  Keats is a little island just off Gibson’s Landing, on the mainland.  We arrived late in the afternoon, after a day of motoring through headwinds and some fog, all the mooring buoys were occupied so we grabbed the last spot at the dock.  Cecilia has friends who frequent their cabin on Keats, so the dock proved to be more convenient as Dizzy and Graham happened to be at their cabin during our stay at Keats.

Their cabin, quaint and cozy, is about a kilometre from the dock.  Dizzy met us at the boat to lead us the way to the cabin.  We shared a scrumptious dinner before heading to Ta Daa for a good night’s sleep.

As planned, Dizzy met us at the boat and we spend a morning of walking the forest trails, mountain trails and rocky shores of Keats Island.  Following lunch, we kayaked along the shores of Keats for a couple of hours.  A dinner of salmon and clams aboard Ta Daa replenish our spend energy.  Before the evening was over, the fog rolled in obscuring the view of Gibson’s Landing. 

Springboard holes

Fog greeted us as we arose.  We had planned to leave at 9:00 a.m. but chose to sit tight. Cecilia and I were invited to join a few Vancouver Power Squadron members for coffee and cake.  They too were waiting for the fog to lift. 

Visibility was limited until near noon.  We had a window of opportunity to depart and make our way to Snug Cove, Bowen Island.  This leg of the trip was uneventful and we did motor out of the fog.  No sooner had we arrived at Snug and securely tied when the rain poured from above.  We stayed put until it subsided.

Snug Cove was not what I expected.  It was much smaller and compact with fewer shops I was led to believe by the print ads I have seen.  Nevertheless, Cecilia and I walked about

Low tide

looking for some warm soup for late lunch, early dinner.  We made the trek, following the Birdhouse Trail, to the Artisans Village.  We did not have the soup we expected but we did have the most delicious curry bowl of vegetables.

On the return to Ta Daa we checked out the lounge area at the marina.  Cecilia discovered a table with an unfinished puzzle; she had to stay and meet the challenge placing the pieces.  I continued to Ta Daa for a much needed rest.  I was very tired.  I awoke to the sound of pouring rain and no Cecilia.  Through a couple text messages it was revealed that she was still working on the puzzle, watching some TV, and waiting for the rain to stop.  The rain never stopped!  And, little did I know her cell phone’s battery died.  And, little did I

Foggy night

know she was waiting for me to come and meet her to bring some cover from the rain.  I was going to wait just 15 minutes more before going to look for her when she showed up slightly damp. 

The next day, we made our way to Granville Island.  I needed to have someone with knowledge look at, feel and experience the vibration I have been worried about for some time. 

Monday was a busy day.  Cecilia, Dave (her husband) and I made whirlwind visits to travel stores while Cecilia coached me on what to purchase and pack for Ecuador.  I had trouble keeping up to her thought process and keeping up to her in the stores.  As I

Follow the bird houses

was making a decision about one item, she had moved on to the next.  Ahhhhhhh!  The shopping trip was a great success and I could not have done it without her.  Thank YOU, Cecilia!  She is a seasoned world-traveller and knows how to pack efficiently.

End-of-day Monday brought two people to Ta Daa to attempt to decipher what is causing the vibration causing me grief.  It was concluded that it may be engine mounts or injectors and that they could not pinpoint the problem for another week.  That was not an option for me.  It would mean staying in Vancouver for that week and then another while they fixed the problem.  It just would not work with that I had to get done.

Monday night I dined at Bridges Restaurant with Cecilia, Dave and Dave’s elderly parents from Australia.  It was a fabulous meal with outstanding conversation of sailing, sailing and more sailing.  The Old Ones were flying home to Australia the next afternoon.

Little sailor girl

I decided I would head home the next morning and work with a mechanic while Ta Daa is at home port. I felt good about this decision.

My daughter decided she would like to get away from the Comox Valley for a couple days so we planned to meet in Ganges.  I left Granville Island at 11:00 a.m. to make slack at Porlier Pass.  The wind was predicted to be light so I had no intent to sail.  Mother Nature had her own plan.  The winds were brisk from the Southeast so out came the sails.  It was fabulous!  But…. I was travelling too fast and would arrive at Porlier Pass too early.  Besides that, I was sailing with 20 knots of apparent wind, which is a lot of wind for me to handle single-handed.  I could feel the ‘pucker’ factor taking affect. Much to my dismay, I had to make the decision to bring in the sails and slowly motor the last couple miles to the pass.  As it was, I still arrived early but could manage the amount of current against me.  Once in Trincomali Channel, the wind was very light so motoring to Ganges it was.

While in Ganges I lunched with Mom, Bud, Meghan and Aibhlin.  Meghan, Aibhlin and I

Early morning Tsehum Harbour

walked and scoured the stores.  Meg caught up on some much needed sleep while I happily cuddled Aibhlin.  It was a win-win for all of us.  We shared two great days before the weather dictated that I should leave. We said our good-byes on Friday.  Meg ferried to Crofton and I headed for Sidney.  I stayed the night in Sidney to get an early start on Saturday morning to be home before the winds were to build to 30 knots.

Saturday morning was calm and bright.  I left Tsehum Harbour at 7:00 a.m. The tides were in my favour so I made good time.  From far off I could see a fog bank — a fog bank I would have to motor through.  Prior to entering the fog, I went below to retrieve my coat and turn on my navigation lights.  On deck I slowed down so I did not move faster than I could see.  I had been in touch with the Osterdam cruise ship and was told the fog was thick. 

Sun rise

I was in the fog no more than five minutes and within seconds it cleared.  I thank Ron and the Gods who were watching over me.  I honestly could not believe it!  I looked around in disbelief at what just happened as I happily motored my way toward Victoria.  I thanked too many people too soon.  The thick, soupy fog returned as I approached Ogden Point. 

I throttled back and turned a couple circles giving way to the Clipper entering the harbour.  I also readied my lines and fenders for docking while away from the busy entrance and exit to Victoria Harbour.  I was surprised at the speed that the whale watching boats were travelling given the visibility, but then again they believe they are invincible no matter the weather.  I actually had to take evasive action to avoid being hit!

I slowly made my way to the fuel dock to fill up before returning to Westbay.  Amazingly, as I departed the fuel dock, the fog quickly moved and visibility was restored.  Crazy weather, crazy Gods!

Ta Daa was docked and securely tied before noon.  I was home after being away for three

Victoria Harbour

months.  I had mixed feelings.  While taking care of post-cruising chores I met the new people who are going to take the vacant slip across from me.  It turns out his sister-in-law used to live in Royston, the hamlet where I grew up, and she had babysat my older sister and me — six degrees of separation or perhaps less.

Really, folks, the only reason I am home is to prepare for my journey and adventure to South America. 

Keep checking my blog.  I will keep you posted.  Preparations are underway for me to leave Victoria on October 29 for another adventure of a lifetime.

Rebecca Spit to Comox to Lasqueti Island

Sunset over Quadra Island 

To my delight my salmon in foil was a big hit.  Our evening ended early.  I had checked the weather report and forecast the winds to 20 NW.  By 8:00 P.M. it was blowing; not 20 but enough for Len and Giselle to want to be on their boat.  I prepared for the dreaded anchor dragging in Rebecca Spit.  I slept in the cockpit with flashlight, boots, clothes, headlamp and engine key ready to go at the first sign of trouble. 

Note:  When I set my anchor I always put extra pressure on the anchor by putting the boat in reverse at 2,000 RMP to simulate storm force on the boat.  I was confident I was not going anywhere, but one never knows… .

I did have a show to watch.  Two boats that were rafter, anchored and stern tied were obviously not confident in their abilities or their ground tackle (anchor, chain and line).  They untied.  One boat re-anchored without a stern tie and the other boat high-tailed it to the Taku Resort across Drew Harbour. 

I also knew that, with the direction of the wind, if I dragged, it would be in the direction of Len and Giselle.  It was highly probably that my anchor would reset.

The night was eventless for me.  Having said that, I slept in gopher mode; every now and

Granite wall in Boho Bay

again I would pop my head up to take note of the lights I wanted to see: the boat beside me, behind me and the resort lights on land.

The next day we made our way to Comox.  No wind and calm seas were the conditions.  Motoring was in my future.  Just south of Mittlenatch there was hope for sailing.  I told myself that if the wind could remain between five and six knots for 10 minutes I would pull out the sails.  Things were looking up for sailing.  When I sail, I do not go below and leave the sails unattended so I took the opportunity to go below and grab a snack before sailing.  Looking forward I could see ripples on the water.  This was a good sign for it meant wind.

Out came the sails.  Did It followed suit.  Giselle came on the radio and announced the competition was on!  I reached a full 2.2 knots of boat speed before I gave up.  The wind, upon pulling sails out, decided to subside to zero. 

We crossed Comox Bar on a rising tide.  I pulled into Comox Bay Marina (my favourite) and they docked at the government wharf for the yacht club reciprocal.  Dinner consisted of fresh prawns purchased direct from the boat at 6:00 P.M @ $6/lb.

Did It left on Satuday morning for Schooner Cove.  I stayed to visit with friends and family.  My kids and grands had dinner with me on Saturday night after Meghan and I walked to Goose Spit and back.  Sunday I met with friends regarding Lima, Peru where I will join them at the end of November for a visit to their Peruvian home.  The rest of Sunday was used preparing for a dock potluck party, which turned out to be great fun.

Dew laden Ta Daa at sunrise.

Amazingly, Monday was used for a taking-care-of-business day.  Also, on Monday, my girlfriend Cecilia joined me for the next week of sailing.  We departed Tuesday morning under pristine conditions for sailing. Our destination was Boho Bay, Lasqueti Island.  Once we crossed the bar, the sails were eagerly set.  We sailed close to Sisters Islet before wind subsided and sails were hauled in.  If we couldn’t sail we would fish.  Bill, in Comox, prepared my salmon lure.  We fished for close to an hour with no nibbles.

I had never been in Boho Bay before and it came highly recommended by Len and Giselle.  As we rounded the corner the spot that I had preconceived was gone but with my rangefinder and the depth sounder, it took no time to choose another place to set the hook.  We joined four boats and another came after us.

I must say it is beautiful.  Sunsets are early but we get the sunrise. 

Yesterday we set out early for the Innovative Aquaculture tour with Gordon Jones.  The Jones brothers are amazing in that they have kept reinventing their aquaculture business

Sunrise over Jedediah Island

to (pardon the pun) stay afloat as the times and demands have changed.  After the tour we geared up for my Inca Trail training – hiking boots, backpack laden with stuff, and my camera.  Cecilia cracked the whip.  We hiked to the top of Mt. Gibraltar and walked the other trails on Jedediah Island for hours before going for a ‘buff’ swim at a private and gravelly beach.  Refreshed, we were back at Ta Daa by 6:30 P.M.  We noticed all other boats had vacated and one new boat was our neighbour for the night.  A dinner of curried clams and rice was served at 7:30 P.M. 

Eighteenth century sheep?

A sight on the island is the wild sheep, believed to be descendants of the sheep that Spaniards brought in the 18^th century.  They are unshorn.  Their wool has trapped mud and sticks so much so that they rattle a tune when they trot past.  It reminds me of a First Nations costume that rattles a rhythm when they dance.

With no moon visible to us, the stars were our focus.  They were stunning and plenty.  We slept in the cockpit under the Big Dipper.  I only had to shake Cecilia for snoring once!  The mozzies (mosquitoes) were a bit of a bother but not enough to drive us below to sleep.  We would periodically

Early morning dive off Ta Daa.

hear the seals playing and hunting fish in the bay.  They would slap their tails before descending. 

It was another beautiful sunrise this morning.  Not a cloud in the sky.  Cecilia started the day with a swim off the boat.  I, as you can see, updated the blog.  Shortly, we will re-visit the aquaculture farm and do some more walking on Jedediah Island.